Amos
Age: 41
Job: I'm very interested in early retirement!
Years Surfing: 15
Habitat: Mid Wales
Boards: 2
Quiver: 9' Bic and a new 9'2" epoxy Circle One that dings! This doesn't have the rocker of the Bic so I'm getting to nose dive an awful lot but its early days yet ...I hope
Local Break: Borth, The Trap.
Places Surfed: Mid-Wales, mainly Borth and Trap. Occasionally travel to sun kissed Pembrokeshire. Also surfed around Easky a couple of times, Brittany and the Vendee.
Favourite Surf Films: Big wednesday, Endless Summer 2, that Catherine Zeta Jones Cornish surf film and Longboarding's Not A Crime. Plus the bit in Zulu when they come over the hill for the last time ...got that bit set on the horizon feel!
Worst Wipeout: Virtually every wave in St.Farns, somewhere in deepest Ireland. Getting closer and closer to these very impressive and hard looking cliffs. Next, was virtually every wave on Easkey Left and getting closer and closer to the very hard looking rock slabs in front of me. I wasn't having a good trip - Went in again though.
Favourite Manoeuvre: Staying up all the way.
Worst Surfing Habit: Falling off !
Best Surfing Experience: Surfing with a couple of mates on some reef in a decent wave with a bit of an edge. Watching a friend on a long board take a ridiculous wave. The howling off shore balanced against the weight of the lip hitting him and he made it!
Weirdest Surfing Experience: Waiting for almost two weeks for a decent surf to arrive whilst on holiday in France. Within an hour of getting into some really great waves I bump my head. I then have to hide the fact that blood is pouring out, so the family don't make too much fuss and send me to a needle wielding doctor type. I spend the remainder of the holiday watching wave after perfect wave ....I did mumble quite a lot!
Other Interests: Lots, I live in Mid Wales. Recently bought a small boat for a spot of fishing and just sitting out at sea. I'm in the rowing club ...longboats ...done the Celtic Challenge. A lot of time seems to be taken up with Borth lifeboat. Work-wise, I'm very interested in early retirement!
