Bois in Bundoran
We drove an hour and a half back to Bundoran to find the beach showing about 2-3ft and clean. Got in but it lacked any punch...
We then spied and paddled over to a grinding little barrel we later found out was called '3D'. It was 2-3ft left and super hollow. Real sucky and breaking in about knee deep water.
A couple of times it sucked totally dry about 5yds in front of you as you shot down the line, praying hard!
We all got nailed on the reef a couple of times but nothing too sketchy, it was great craic and a pleasant surprise when we were expecting utter flatness!
Saturday night, as you'd expect, was pretty tame, culminating in some Irish girls wanting to take mine and 'Cheese's' cherries (we're virgins, honest!) and 'General' running stark noodle naked down the road back to the apartment around 4am.
Sunday was hangover day, Hoop and I took a drive up into the mountains and brought home a sack of dried peat, traditional Irish fire fuel.
By evening the hangover had been assuaged with hair of the dog and we were back in full swing.
The open fire was roaring away and I suddenly remembered a trick my old man used to use to get the fire going back home. Cover up the open front with a piece of newspaper to make it draw more efficiently.
Well, this started off as great fun till we ran out of newspaper. I then figured it would be a great way of drying off towels, with the inevitable result... ahem!
Monday dawned and the swell had picked up very slightly, so we headed a mile or so up the road to Tullen Strand.
A beautiful 3-4ft wedgy peak greeted us, clean too! Excited as bandits we changed and got in for our first proper, tasty surf.
We spent an hour or two on the main peak, but it was fairly crowded. 'General' was loving the left (goofy bar steward!), but 'Hoop', myself and 'Cheese' drifted off down the beach looking for another peak.
We found it, 'The Cobra'! Basically, this occurred where waves coming straight into shore converged with waves which were bouncing off the cliff at 45 degrees. This resulted in a tasty spitting peak jacking up pretty much vertically, out of nowhere!
Get it right, it was possible to backdoor it and get a cheeky bit of tubular intensity and carry on down the line. Get it wrong, BANG!
Heavy lip knocks you off and buries you in the sand... hahahaha! Had an awesome couple of hours getting mangled!
Tuesday was much the same, with a double session at Tullan...slightly bigger 4-6ft, from the shoulder the main peak looked not dissimilar to a grinding Mundaka, qualite!
Weds a.m. we took a drive to Easkey. The 40+ mph winds had blown everything flat, so we drove back to Tullan which had some shelter under the cliffs.
Took a load of pics before going in and also got some footage of a guy getting a proper cover - sweet as!
Had another surf and then hit the town for some more antics. Alas, being something of a tourist town, Bundoran is pretty quiet town in the off season, so we made do with a game of 'Ten Pin' and an early night.
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