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Textiles: Manufacturing techniques - EduqasReinforcing and stiffening

In the textile and clothing industry fabrics are dyed, printed and finished before being cut, assembled and shaped by machine operators. For the garments to fit, accuracy in construction is important.

Part of Design and TechnologyIn-depth technical principles

Reinforcing and stiffening

Textile materials and behave differently when subjected to force or stress.

How strong, durable or elastic the textile material is will depend on the fibre source and the construction method of the material or component. Weaker materials can be strengthened by , or .

Fibre source

generally have more and elasticity than . A loaded rucksack, a tent pitched in windy weather or a swimming costume all have to be strong, and, in the case of the swimming costume, elastic, because of the forces and stresses each experience when in use.

on their own are not strong but, when twisted into a they become much stronger. Once the yarns are into a fabric they become even stronger.

Kevlar (an fibre) is five times stronger than steel and because of this it is used for bulletproof vests as well as for protective workwear.

Woven fabric

Woven fabric has more than knitted fabric, which stretches easily. Although a plain weave is the most common, it is a twill weave that is used to increase the durability of some fabrics. A twill weave creates a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface by crossing the and in an offset method, changing each line as the weave progresses. Rucksacks, workwear and jeans all need durability for a long life, so a twill weave will be chosen.

Image gallerySkip image gallerySlide 1 of 2, A graphical representation of a plain weave, one over and one under, alongside an image of a white, plain weaved textile.,

Seams

Any will produce some element of reinforcement, particularly if double stitched. Many designers will choose a for products that will experience weight stresses, such as jeans and rucksacks.

The back of a pair of jeans shows several double-stitched flat felled seams.
Image caption,
Flat fell seam

Bonding

Interfacing

is a non-woven fabric made from fibres bonded together. The fibres are bonded together by or stitching, or they are melted. This material is used commonly to and stiffen parts of clothing that will experience a lot of wear, such as shirt collars, cuffs and waistbands. Interfacing, can also be stitched or ironed onto the back of a fabric to improve rigidity or add thickness.

A pair of hands shown ironing a material onto a piece of burgundy polka dot fabric.

Piping

is a constructional technique used to improve the of textile products. It also helps to reinforce the seams and as such increase their durability.

An elegant, dark green, vintage armchair with a focus on the piping work.

Laminating

Laminating is two or more fabrics together using an adhesive, rubber or a foam. By bonding fabrics together their properties are combined, improving their function and often reinforcing their strength. Gore-Tex, Permatex and SympaTex are well-known laminated fabrics that are both waterproof and breathable. They are designed to allow body moisture to evaporate away from the body, through the use of a breathable membrane between layers of fabric, whilst still remaining waterproof. The membrane has microscopic holes, big enough to let body moisture through but too small for rain, and it is often used in tents and waterproof walking gear.

A breathable membrane and insulation sandwiched between the inside and outside linings of a breathable fabric - perspiration can exit the material but ran rebounds on the membrane.
Figure caption,
The laminated structure of an example breathable fabric

Quilting

Quilting sandwiches a between layers of fabric. They are stitched together, often forming a decorative pattern as a result. Quilting is often used to give warmth to a , but it can also be used to the fabric鈥檚 strength and give protection to the wearer, eg the elbows, knees and shoulders of a biker jacket.

Two layers of yellow fabric encase a layer of white wadding, showing the breakdown of the yellow, quilted fabric that it is alongside.