Martin Aaron, producer of ³ÉÈË¿ìÊÖ Surfing Wales website, gives us his advice.
Getting started
Interested in learning to surf? There are plenty of surf schools available or you can teach yourself . To get started you need a big, floaty board, preferably a foot or so bigger than your actual height and a good well fitting wetsuit, as well as boots and gloves if you're learning in winter. You also need a block of wax to add traction to your board for grip and a leash to keep you connected to the board should you fall off (which you will...).
Knowledge & fitness
Get some local knowledge before hitting the beach and ask local surfers or surf shops about rips, tide times and so on.
You don't have to be an Olympic swimmer but you need to be able to get back to shore, should your leash snap. Get down to the local pool and do some lengths if you're unsure about fitness.
Make sure you eat slow releasing energy foods, bananas are always recommended, around 30 minutes before surfing and make sure you keep hydrated before you get wet as you can't drink salt water!
For more detailed information on surfing fitness check out the .
Basics
If you can't duck dive then you won't get out very far. Duck diving is all down to timing and technique and is one of the hardest things to get right.
Like most sports, you won't be good straight away. The idea is to get out the back to surf clean, unbroken waves. This doesn't happen until you've mastered the .
Once you've learnt the basics start watching better surfers and DVDs for inspiration and try learning some new moves. You never know, you could become Britain's 2nd World Champion. The last one was way back in 1989 when Martin Potter flew the flag for Britain!
The Rules
Surfing is a solo sport at the end of the day. In its purest form it boils down to surfer vs. Mother Nature but a great camaraderie does develop amongst surfing buddies and regulars at your local spot.
People keep an eye out for one another as they share a common goal and respect for the sea. This isn't always the case especially at more crowded places in other parts of the world where 'drop ins' and bad vibes are common place.
Surfing believe it or not, does have .
The main one is centred round the 'drop in'. It's quite simple really and basically states that the surfer 'nearest the curl' or breaking part of the wave has the right of way. They own that wave, once up and riding.
Some waves break in both directions so a peak can be split between two surfers. Others will just break in one direction which is when the rule comes into play.
A surfer who 'drops in' on another i.e. takes off on a wave further down, in front of the existing surfer is generally frowned upon - it's a big no, no unless it's a friend of yours.
Safety
There are also safety implications surrounding this. A board travelling with the weight of an ocean behind it can seriously injure or kill someone, it's that simple. A fin cut can sever an artery, a lose board can knock someone out. This is why we have out in the water so please read before surfing.
Surfers come in all shapes and sizes but have one thing in common - we all live to surf and salt water pumps through our veins! Once bitten, there's no escape. Loved ones quickly learn to accept the consequences - dawn surf patrols, post work surfs. Holidays suddenly become water based only, so no more trips inland - surfers dry out!
Latest
Size doesn't matter. Good things come in little packages!
800m runner
Training ground
Work hard
Colin Jackson reveals more top tips on making exercise part of your lifestyle.