For the second in our new cookery series from the Scottish-Italian food writer Mary Contini.
For the last 20 years, Mary has been linked, via her husband's family, to the Edinburgh delicatessen, Valvona & Crolla.
Before preparing a dish of polenta verde or tordiglione in the local dialect, she gave Simon Parkes a tour of the premises. Mary Contini, Dear Francesca: A Cookbook with Love is published by Ebury Press; ISBN: 0091881765.