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Name/Age:
Gull, thirties
成人快手town: West Wales
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成人快手 region: South Wales
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Quiver:
1970s 6'4 Bilbo single fin, 6'1 Bonzer 5 -Bumble bee stub听tail, 6'2 Mandala quad fish, 6'2 Black Salamander fish, 6'6 OPsingle fin
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Surf wagon/vehicle? How do you get to the water?
A red T5 stealth camper
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Where/Why did you start surfing?
A听marine biologist family friend took听me surfing when I was 16. I had an oversized wetty on so had plenty of flushes but听stood up briefly towards the end听and I was hooked!听21 yrs later I'm still going, harder than ever.
Used to see a few local guys surfing on my rounds as a beach cleaner听and fancied a go.
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Best/Worst thing about surfing:
Most recent would have to be 10 days of back to back swells in Ireland听last Autumn and scoring 8-10ft+ Anka point this year with a couple of mates in feb 2009
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Favourite Surfer(s) and why:
Jim Banks for his travel ethos, herbs听and tube riding. Donavon Frankenreiter for his soul arch bottom turns, Rasta for his fish riding ability, Tom Curren for his brilliance and boredom, Occy for his听powerhouse cutback,听Tom Caroll for his Pipeline snap, Da Bull for his stripey shorts.
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Your fave board/quiver me timbers!:
I already own it - my 6'6 OP听:) A board for life
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Advice for someone just starting:
Learn to duckdive well.
Advice for someone wanting to move on from newbie status:
Don't tea bag -听If you're paddling out,听听SURF听don't just听sit around.
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Tip on surviving the Irish winter:
Call that a听Winter? Come to South Wales!
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Best/invaluable single bit of kit:
My听surfboard.听I couldn't surf without it! This is a daft question
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Other kit tips:
Always wear wetsuit and use wax. I might have misinterpreted this question ;0
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Recommended info -听听books/movies/websites/clubs?
Off The听Lip - surfing forum听on 成人快手 Wales or look us up on Facebook. Books - Rabbits 'Bustin Down the Door'听听听听Movies -听 Green Iguana, Big Wednesday, Framelines.
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Your thoughts now that Ireland is a global surf destination?
It's all good. You have so many nooks and crannies and it's not always consistent so will never get really crowded except at the main breaks and that happens everywhere I'm afraid...听
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"Surf guidebooks make things too easy, and have been a bad thing for Irish surfing" Discuss:
Times change. I'm an old dog but get up early and find perfect waves and听quiet breaks all the time so if you put the effort in, you'll get the rewards. Half the guys surfing nowadays can't read a weather chart properly so the internet is great but doesn't give you the whole picture.
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Dream surf trip:
Any pristine quiet reef break - hot or cold. I don't mind so long as it's quiet.听If I had to name somewhere then it would probably be an x spot in the听Lennox Head area of Oz.听
What one way has surfing changed your life?
My life is surfing. My friends, my time, my money, my holidays, my partner, my experiences. Can't sum it up听in any other way really.
Anything else to declare?
Irish听friends -听We've been surfing and producing quality surfers out of Wales for the past 30 yrs. If another Irish surfer asks me incredulously 'so can you surf in Wales then?"听I'll cry! LOL
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