Surf Girls
In this section, local surfer Michelle Gallen remembers
her own journey. From the first time on the beach, to getting
gear, to getting up on her feet, 'Chelle's observations, hopefully
are an encouragement for other women to get started, get gear,
and get surfing.
By Michelle Gallen
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Getting started
My friend Susan got me into surfing back in 2000. I'd been ill
for several years, and although I'd got my health back, I was
physically very weak. Susan and I worked in the same company back
then, and every Monday when I'd come in to work wiped with a hangover,
she'd saunter in looking tanned and chilled out…surfing
was her secret and she told me to give it a go.
I was very nervous of trying surfing, as I wasn’t a great
swimmer, but I've always loved the beach. Susan took me and some
other beginners to Rossnowlagh. I borrowed a wetsuit and Susan's
7' 3" mini-mal. I didn't get even a basic surf lesson from
Susan - she just ran off down the beach and left me struggling
with this huge board. I don't remember much about my first surf…I
think I just tried to survive! After half an hour I was completely
exhausted and dragged myself out of the water, abandoned the board
and staggered up to my car. I was too tired to even open the door
and had to lie flat in the car park for about 40 minutes until
the others came to see if I was still alive…
Buying a wetsuit
 But
somehow, I'd got the bug. The next week Susan went with me to
buy a wetsuit. I was lucky that she was there to advise me on
what to buy, how much to spend and the fit of the wetsuit. If
you know anyone who surfs, drag them with you when you're buying
a wetsuit. I got a 5x4x3mm for about £150 stg - which was
a real bargain then (basic wetsuits have got even cheaper now).
A beginner surfer should buy a good 5x4x3mm wetsuit. You can wear
it in the summer, and with a thermal vest, bootees, gloves and
hood, it should see you through the winter too.
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Buying a bodyboard
Because of my illness, I wasn't fit enough to handle a surfboard,
so I bought a bodyboard. If you're not completely sure about surfing,
I think getting a bodyboard is a good way to get started. I paid
about £100 stg for my bodyboard - you can get them from
£5 up, but a good bodyboard handles so much better than
a cheapie £10 deal, and it's a lot safer too.
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Buying a surf board
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 After
a few months on the water, I'd recovered all my strength and felt
better than before I was sick.
So I decided to give surfing a go again. I bought a 7' 3"
mini-mal as it's a great beginner size for my height (I'm 5'4").
And big boards are pretty indestructible - great for the battering
you'll give your board as a beginner. Then I borrowed a 'learn
to surf' video from a friend and went to Achill island for a week-long
surf holiday in November(!). At the end of that holiday (after
3 gales and 4 power cuts) I was standing on my board.
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Surfing the North Coast
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I started surfing the South and West coasts, but when I moved
to the North I found things were a bit different. There are fewer
girls in the water (although things are changing now - lots more
girls are trying surfing). And the water's colder in the winter.
There really are days when I've been sitting at the beach, watching
the hailstones bounce off my windscreen when I've thought surely
there's got to be easier ways to get a buzz!
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Weekend Warriors
I'm only a weekend warrior, which means I don't really put in
the hours to get very good. But for me it's not about becoming
a female Kelly Slater. I surf because it makes me feel good and
keeps me fit. I love being outdoors and getting in the water.
Surfing takes me all over Ireland, relaxes me and is a great way
of meeting new people. Apart from the initial investment (£200+
for a 7'3" mini-mal and £100+ for a winter suit) it's
a reasonably cheap sport. I love taking new people out surfing.
I've loads of spare gear, so lots of my friends have borrowed
my stuff and tried surfing. I always give beginners a quick lesson
though - and watch them in the water.
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Key Advice:
Wear a bikini under your wetsuit.
It's much easier to change in and out of in a freezing cold beach!
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Never surf alone
Surfing is a dangerous. I broke my knuckle and got a bad knock
to the head earlier this year when my surfboard hit me. If something
goes wrong, you need to know that you'll be able to get help.
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Learn to swim properly
As I said, surfing is dangerous. If you're a weak swimmer don't
fool yourself into thinking you can just surf within your depth.
Many beaches have dangerous rips and you can be dragged out way
beyond your depth. Get swimming lessons. Swim regularly.
Buy a tent and go on surfari
 Some
of the best craic I've ever had has been on camping holidays 'out
West'. Grab your tent, a sleeping bag and your board and drive
around exploring. Some weekends are wetter than others, but nothing
beats the feeling of sitting down with a pint beside a roaring
fire, knowing that the swell's just right for a early start the
next day!
Look after our beaches
That means not driving on sand dunes and destroying them. It means
bringing a bag to the beach and taking away your own rubbish,
and if you can face it, some of the crap other people leave behind.
Light camp-fires on sand or in BBQ dishes raised up on stones
- our sand dunes can't survive fire. Walk on well-used paths instead
of breaking through rough areas - this protects the dune by having
only one weak spot. Without our sand dunes, our beaches have no
protection and the breaks we know will disappear. Give money to
the coast guard when you see a wee box. These guys don't get paid
to save our lives - our donations keep them going.
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And finally…enjoy the craic!
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Anything to add? If you would like to contribute and share your
experiences send
us an email.
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