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Method

1. Start by softening the chard leaves slightly - I usually steam them for 5–8 minutes, but you can also put them into a large bowl and pour some hot water over. They need to just soften to become more pliable.

2. Mix the finely chopped onion and cooked, cool rice, mince, carrot and salt and freshly ground black pepper together in a bowl. Use your hands if you like.

3. To assemble, lay a chard leaf on a clean work surface and put 1 heaped teaspoon of the filling close to the stalk end, then flip the bottom of the leaf up and over the filling. Fold in the sides and roll up as tightly as possible, leaving the finished roll on the worktop, seam-side down. Repeat with the rest of the chard and filling.

4. Choose a saucepan or cast-iron casserole with a lid that will hold the chard-leaf rolls snugly in a single layer. Heat the butter in the casserole over a medium heat and cook the thinly sliced onion until soft, then add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes until it smells sweet and mellow.

5. Add the tinned tomatoes to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes or until the tomatoes have broken down into a sauce. Whisk in the crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat down to low and carefully add the rolls, seam side down, then cover and cook for 20-30 minutes.

6. Serve hot with plenty of crusty bread to mop up the juices.