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Widgery Cross stands as a landmark above Lydford, dominating the skyline in this area. It would be easy to take the direct route to the top, but nothing like as interesting as Tom's walk proved to be.

We met in the moorland car park above the Dartmoor Inn, where Tom described what was in store.

"First we'll take in a memorial plaque to a local soldier, killed in the First World War, then we'll head for Doetor Brook with its series of waterfalls cascading down over the rocks, we'll look at an old tin mine, walk up to Widgery Cross and then come back down the west face of Bray Tor.

"It's my favourite walk because it has so much history, you can walk here all year round as it's outside the firing range and it's great for families as children can play in the river, plus it's a superb area."

We set off through the five bar gate, to the right of the car park. Stay on this right bearing track for about 100 metres, then turn left on one of the many tracks, keeping Widgery Cross as your landmark to aim for.

You cross the brow of the small rise and then drop down to the River Lyd, making for a rocky outcrop in the valley, known as Black Rock (Grid Ref: SX 532 854).

The site of the WWI soldier's memorial plaque

On the riverside front of the rock face is a plaque in memory of Captain Nigel Duncan Ratcliffe Hunter, who came from Lydford. He was only 23 when he died in 1918 in France, and in this 90th anniversary of his death the plaque has been restored.

He was a great poet and one of the last poems he wrote is inscribed on the plaque.

"Are we not like this moorland stream,
Springing none knows where from,
Tinkling, bubbling, flashing a gleam,
Back at the sun 'ere long,
Gloomy and dull under a cloud,
Then rushing onwards again,
Dashing at rocks with anger loud,
Roaring and foaming in vain,
Wandering thus for many a mile,
Twisting and turning away for a while,
Then of a sudden 'tis over the fall,
And the dark still pool is the end of all.

Is it? I thought as I turned away,
And I turned away to the silent moor.
Is it? I said and my heart said 'nay',
As I gazed at the cross on Widgery Tor."

From here you walk upstream for around 200 metres to a wooden footbridge, with stepping stones alongside. The week of the Boscastle floods in August 2004 the bridge was washed from its mountings.

You can cross via the bridge or the stepping stones. Tom warns that if you go the same way twice though you are likely to get pixie led.

On reaching the far bank follow the river downstream. In the distance you can see the remains of Doe Tor Farm. There has been a farm here since 1730, though the last occupants left in 1954.

On reaching Doetor Brook, follow it uphill to the left, where there is a little concrete bridge you can take a look around the derelict farm buildings. The route continues uphill, keeping to the left of Doetor Brook. You will need to pick your way carefully alongside the water, as it is boggy in places, but you're rewarded with fine views of the water tumbling over the rocks.

Tom Soby on the stepping stones across the Lyd

Shortly you'll reach a scar in the landscape to the right. This is connected with the mine workings ahead. On your left you should see Widgery Cross come into view, if you're not shrouded in mist as we were. A boundary stone, close by, marks Tavistock Rural District Council.

Keep heading up hill following Doetor Brook as it bears around to the left and into the mine workings, called Wheal Frederick, but known locally as Fox Hole Mine (Grid Ref: SX 545 853).

There is plenty to see here, including a buddle, a huge settling pit where, Tom said, they would have crushed the tin ore, using a pony which would have walked around in a circle.

Nearby is the stone built mine captain's house, of which only the solid walls and fireplace remain. It's a remote but atmospheric spot, perhaps somewhere Tom would like to live?

"I would love it," he said, "but my wife would hate it."

You now effectively head directly left away from these mine workings, on a north west compass bearing 286 degrees. With your back to the house and the brook take one of the paths ahead to the top of the Bray (also called Brat) Tor (Grid Ref: SX 539 856).

"There are lots and lots of tracks you can follow," said Tom. "Some will take you in the right direction, some won't!"

Even in the gloom Widgery Cross shortly came into view and we scrambled up the rocks to take a closer look.

At last, Tom and Bella at the top of Widgery Cross

"The cross was built by a well know artist called William Widgery," said Tom. "It was unveiled in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. It's unusual for a Dartmoor cross because it is all cut from blocks of granite interlaid as opposed to just one huge piece of granite. It's a great landmark."

On a clear day the tor offers fine views to Plymouth Sound and across to Brent Tor Church. From a higher vantage point nearby at Great Links Tor, you can see also to the Atlantic, along the North Cornwall coastline to Bude and Widemouth Bay.

The mist lifted at the right time to give us clearer views and see the footbridge below. Descend by first keeping left on the west face of Bray Tor and then down the wide grassy track.

Cross the stones or footbridge, then head back to the car park along the stone track, keeping the field wall on your right.

Looking back it's obvious that the direct route to Widgery Cross is straight up the west face of Bray Tor, but I hope you'll find, like I did, that it's so much more interesting taking the long way around.