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Kazakhstan between the future and the past

Hamid Ismailov Hamid Ismailov | 15:13 UK time, Friday, 16 December 2011

Kazakhstan is just one of the countries celebrating 20 years' independence from Soviet rule this week.

I have just been to that country and along with my colleagues Johannes Dell and Sohrab Zia we took the following pictures which reflect the story of a modern Kazakhstan.

Kazakhstan celebrates 20 years of independence with no expense spared. The triumphal monument in Shymkent leads to a huge memorial park, built in the space of six months and - typical for the new Kazakhstan - is financed by a public-private finance partnership.

The country's big cities such as Almaty boast plenty of modern - often futuristic architecture - reflecting the country's oil wealth as well as its ambitions to be visible on the global stage. Internationally-renowned architects such as Sir Norman Foster have had commissions built here.One such project is the country's first Metro in Almaty. It was opened in time for Kazakhstan's independence anniversary. It has been a long time coming. Construction began in 1988, but came to a halt as the Soviet Union broke up.

Kazakhstan's wealth is generated by its natural resources, wheat, metals, uranium, but most of all oil and gas. The Soviet-built refinery in Shymkent is jointly owned by Kazakh and Chinese state oil companies. Now oil flows to energy-hungry China.

Not everyone shares in the country's wealth. In slum areas like this on the outskirts of Shymkent, people have few prospects and are vulnerable to crime and even people trafficking. Kazakhstan attracts many migrant labourers from its Central Asian neighbours. But those who come to work illegally can be at risk of exploitation, modern day slaves with their passports taken away and no easy recourse to justice.

After the Soviet Union fell apart, Central Asians once again began to openly practice their Muslim faith. Local historians are rediscovering Islam in Kazakhstan as in the rest of Central Asia - new scriptures are being found and published. Recently, 50 new verses of Ahmed Yassawi, the 12th century Sufi mystic, have been unearthed here. For many the teachings of the Sufi mystic remains relevant today and a pragmatic brand of Islam is practiced in Kazakhstan.

Mosques like this one in the Southern city of Taraz are well attended, especially by young people . But the authorities are exerting greater control over religious activity, following an outbreak of extremist violence, including an attack in Taraz.

A huge new road link is being built in Kazakhstan which connects Europe with Western China as a kind of new Silk Road.

The project is a metaphor for Kazakhstan's strategy to look both East and West as it looks for new markets.

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