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Climbing Denali, Day 15, The Summit

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Graham Gillies | 10:26 UK time, Wednesday, 17 June 2009

Mark has made it to the top of Mount Mckinley/Denali! The highest point in the United States of America. Following is the story of the near 16 hour trip from High Camp to the summit and back.

Tuesday 16th, Mark called 2.15pm Alaska time. They were an hour beyond Denali Pass at Zebra Rock. It's fantastic, weather good and he had his first sight of the summit. It's been slow and tough going and they are all feeling the affects of the altitude. They now head for Archdeacons Tower then across 0.25mile plateau called Football Field. After that its up Kahiltna Horn to the summit ridge at 20,100ft. The final summit ridge takes them to Denali South summit at 20.320ft.

Report followed on the from group leader Melis.

Melis just called in, she is up above the Zebra Rocks, 18,600 +- right now, GOING FOR IT! Her whole group is doing well and they are plodding along, slowly and steadily. It was warmed up a bit and the wind has died off. Sounds like a good summit day to me. Both groups still have a long way to go, but they are steadily on their way.

Then in a later report from the blog.

Kirby called at about 6:30 pm Alaska Time from the summit of Denali! Melis is not far behind them. When we talked to her earlier she said that if it is cold and/or windy they would wait to call us until they get back to camp, and if it was "sunny & warm" they would call from the top. From what Kirby said, I don't expect to hear from Melis until they get back to camp later tonight. We should be able to make an update by morning.

Wednesday 17th, 11pm Alaska time. Phone call from Mark confirmed that they had summited! Sounded exhausted after 13 and half hours on the go at high altitude in the thin air. On the approach ridge to the summit the weather suddenly deteriorated into a blizzard and white-out with zero visibility. Mark's idea of hell, with huge exposure and flat light. Lots of concentration needed to walk with his crampons on the narrow ridge. Only spent two minutes on the summit and had to make a retreat.

They are now back at the top of Denali Pass with 2 hours still to go to reach High Camp at 17,200ft. One member of the team did not make the summit but they are all back together again. Mark feeling a few blisters and needs more food but the descent is going well.

Mark just called 1.20pm Alaska time. Back at High Camp, 17,200ft, after 15hrs 45mins to the summit and back. Only 5 made it to the summit as one member nearly collapsed on the summit ridge and the descent then took much longer getting him down carefully. Back in the tent, very cold - getting some food and then sleep.

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